The farthest inhabited island from the Croatian mainland, Vis is the ideal vacation destination if you’re looking to discover an off the beaten path island paradise surrounded by the Adriatic Sea. I’ve visited on two separate occasions almost 8 years apart, and this place still has that magical quality that I experienced the first time I stepped off of that ferry.
Life slows down on Vis. Once you board the ferry from the mainland, you leave behind all of the crowds and the hectic nature of the city and begin to embrace the unique kind of tranquil beauty that the island offers. Don’t expect to find the Instagram-worthy bars and restaurants that so many tourist-centric cities have nowadays. Vis is still in the good ol’ days; lined with old-school family-owned restaurants, all-in-one cafe/bars open from sunrise until late into the evening, and not to mention, some of Europe’s most beautiful beaches.
You don’t come to Vis if you’re looking for a European party destination or a 5-star hotel, you come to Vis to immerse yourself in nature and embrace the slow life.
So, to help you better navigate this very special place, I’ve rounded up a complete guide to the island of Vis, Croatia. If you’re interested in getting a firsthand look at the island before visiting, you can also check out my YouTube video on how to spend 1 week in Vis.
How to Get to Vis:
There’s no airport on Vis island so the only way to get there is by ferry from the mainland. I would recommend flying into the Split airport and taking the ferry from there. The ferry port is about a 30 minute drive from the airport.
There are a few different options for the ferry:
- The large Jadrolinija ferry which takes around 2h20m and costs ~9€* for a foot passenger. The ferry has air conditioning as well as a snack bar where you can purchase chips, beer and other small goods. You also have the ability to sit indoors or outdoors. You can book your tickets through their site here or simply buy them at the port, though in peak season it would probably be best to book ahead of time. We’ve visited in September on both occasions and had no trouble buying our tickets at the port just a few days before.
- A small Catamaran which takes around 1h20m-2 hours depending on the stops that day, and costs around 30€. But note that there is no outdoor seating on the catamaran, only indoors.
*Pricing fluctuates based on the time of year.
Where to Stay in Vis:
There are two main towns in Vis – Vis town and Komiza. Vis is easiest to get to, being just off of the ferry port. It’s the larger of the two towns which means that you’ll find more restaurants, bars and shops there but it’s also a bit more crowded and a tad commercialized.
Komiza, on the other hand, is on the opposite side of the island, which is about a 20 minute drive away. Komiza is rather small with less restaurants and bars and minimal commercialism. I’ve stayed in Komiza on both trips to Vis and would highly recommend staying there over Vis town. Although it is small, I’ve found that there are more than enough restaurants and bars to visit a different one each night and there are a number of beaches within walking distance. Plus, the town sits on a marina so there are no shortage of boat trip options.
What to Know About Vis:
Like mainland Croatia, the main language spoken on Vis is Croatian, though many people do speak English. That being said, I always recommend learning a few general phrases (hello, thank you, etc.) out of respect to the people and country that you’re visiting.
Vis is a very quiet island. If you’re looking for a lively vacation this is not the place to go, but honestly, that’s what I love most about it.
If you’re looking to venture outside of Vis or Komiza then I would recommend renting a car, as public transportation, like buses, are restricted to travel to and from Vis and Komza. Cabs are also expensive and few and far between so you can never guarantee that one will be available when you need it, unless you book ahead of time. All of that being said, we’ve never rented a car while staying on Vis as we’ve preferred to spend most of our time in the town of Komiza and use a cab to get to wineries and restaurants, and boats to explore more of the beaches.
What to Do in Vis:
Visit Vis’ many beautiful beaches.
I’ve explored quite a bit of Europe and I can say with full confidence that Croatia has some of the best beaches in the continent. Vis specifically is home to some pretty incredible beaches with waters in all shades of blue and teal set against jaw dropping backdrops that will give you that ‘pinch me’ feeling. A few beaches that you have to visit, not including Vis’ most famous beach which I’ll touch on later, are:
- Gusarica Beach – Situated on the outskirts of Komiza, Gusarica Beach is surrounded by lush greenery and sits right in front of the historic 16th century Church of St. Mary. This is one of the larger beaches in Komiza and is great for swimming.
- Komiza Beach – This may be my favorite beach on the island due to its charm. A small beach located just a few minutes from the marina, Komiza Beach is the perfect spot for lounging. Old homes line the beach and lead right into the water, giving it a beautiful backdrop. Plus, this beach has a small stand selling coffee and drinks.
- Plaža Kamenica & Novo Posta Beach – These beaches are both located a ways away from Komiza town so are often quieter and are significantly larger, but I personally think that the other beaches mentioned here are better options. That being said, I would recommend taking a morning to make the walk down to these beaches as they do have some beautiful views.
- Plaža Barjoska – This is actually one of the beaches that was featured in the Mamma Mia movies, though it is quite a trek to get there. I believe you can get there via car somehow but we decided to hike and while it was a long and exhausting journey, it was absolutely worth it to have the beach to ourselves. You could probably get here a lot easier if you hired a boat from the Komiza marina.
- Mala Pristiscina – Only accessible by boat, this may be one of the smallest beaches on Vis. Depending on the tide the beach itself is non-existent but it’s the perfect little swimming cove and like most beaches on Vis, it has absolutely stunning, crystal clear water.
Don’t miss out on seeing Stiniva Beach.
Recognized as one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, Stiniva Beach is an absolute must when visiting Vis. A secluded bay shielded with cave-like stone walls towering over waters in all shades of blue and green, Stiniva Beach is a stunning display of nature that almost feels unreal.
There are two ways to get to Stiniva Beach – by foot or by boat. If you’re planning to get there by foot I would recommend wearing closed toed shoes and be ready for some steep inclines. It is not an easy hike by any means, but only takes about ~20 minutes, though it definitely feels longer. The easier way to get there is by boat. You can find a number of different boats traveling to Stiniva each day from the Komiza marina.
Go Wine tasting.
If you didn’t know, Croatia is home to a number of centuries-old vineyards and I can attest that the wines themselves are delicious. Vis in particular has a rich wine making heritage and many of the winemakers on the island still follow traditional techniques. A few wineries that I would recommend visiting on the island include:
- Vidovic Family Winery – We had such a wonderful tasting here one afternoon. Set on a family home towards the center of the island, Vidovic Family Winery is a no frills establishment. Visit during their opening hours and grab a seat at one of the tables outside where one of the husband and wife duo will bring out bottles of each wine for you to try. It’s the perfect place to spend an afternoon.
- Roki’s Winery & Restaurant – I touch on this in more detail later, but the restaurant Roki’s also makes their own wine so I would highly recommend getting a tour of their facilities and indulging in some of their delicious blends.
- Fields of Grace Vineyards – I haven’t had a chance to make it here myself just yet but I’ve heard great things!
- Rogach Komiza – If you don’t feel like traveling too far from Komiza, the Wine & Spirits bar, Rogach, has a number of local Croatian wines on the menu so you can easily venture here one night to sample some of the local delicacies.
Take a hike.
There are actually a number of hikes that you can embark on on the island of Vis. We of course knew that any hike that we were going to take had to have a beach at the end so we decided to make our way from Komiza to Plaža Barjoska. This ended up being a roughly 1.5 hour hike mostly on trail, which seems like a lot, but the views along the way helped to make it that much more worth it. Be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes and bring lots of water as there are no shops along the hiking path.
You can find a number of other trail options on AllTrails.
Enjoy a dinner at Roki’s Winery & Restaurant.
If you’re interested in indulging in a traditional Croatian meal, which you absolutely should, then Roki’s is just the place. A family company founded in 1991, Roki’s is home to a small outdoor tavern restaurant located on a vineyard. You can indulge in traditional Croatian peka dishes here, but be sure to order at least a day ahead of time as this dish takes all day to bake. We had such a wonderful night here, enjoying our homemade meal in the courtyard and sipping on their own wines.
Take a boat tour around the island.
We’ve used Royal Marine Croatia in the past, but there are a number of other companies that offer boat tours around vis from the Komiza marina. Because Vis is a small island with some hidden beaches, a boat is the best way to visit those smaller, off-the-beaten path beaches and get a view of the island from the sea.
Rent a car or a scooter and make your way around the island.
While we have never done this ourselves, you can absolutely rent a scooter and make your way around the island. Because it is small, it only takes about 20 minutes to drive from one side to the other so you can easily venture around the whole island in just one day. In Komiza, you can check the companies Rent a Scooter Komiza or VIS RENT for scooter rental options.
Venture to the Blue Caves.
Located on the nearby island of Bisevo, the Blue Caves are a coastal cave that when the sun shines in and reflects, the water in the cave appears to be a perfect deep blue. Boat tours from Komiza visit the blue caves everyday throughout the season, as along as the weather permits. Unfortunately, you’re no longer able to swim in the caves so you will only be able to see it by boat.
Visit the many stands on the Komiza marina to find the best Blue Caves boat tour for you.
Where to Eat & Drink in Komiza, Vis:
- Roki’s Winery & Restaurant – What I love most about Roki’s is that eating here is truly an experience. A family company founded in 1991, Roki’s is home to a small outdoor tavern restaurant located on a vineyard. As I mentioned earlier, if you’re choosing to try a traditional peka dish, you will need to choose your meal at least the day before, as it takes all day to cook.
- Rogach Komiza – A premium wine and spirits bar in Komiza with a quaint little location that offers the most magical sunset views of the marina. They also serve local Croatian wines so this is a great place to go for a cocktail or a taste of the local varietals.
- Pizzeria Charlie – Sometimes, no matter where you may be in the world, you just need a pizza. Luckily, Vis has it’s very own Pizza shop and it’s actually pretty good. Its location on the marina makes it the ideal spot to relax and enjoy a post-beach lunch.
- Konoba Barba – Konoba Barba may have the best view in all of Vis, as their outdoor deck is directly across from the Komiza marina. This is a great place to go for a more elevated dinner of fresh seafood.
- Robinzon Restaurant – A casual dinner spot, Robinzon serves a mix of traditional Croatian meat offerings, pizza and fries. Of course, they have some delicious local Croatian wines to enjoy along with your meal.
- Caffe Bar Speed – This is a no frills cafe/bar right on the marina and is our go-to spot for an affordable post-dinner beverage.
- Fort George – I haven’t had a chance to make it here myself but I’ve heard Fort George is not only a beautiful location for dinner, but they also have some great food.
- Pekara Kolderaj – A local bakery on the marina, this is a great spot to go in the morning to grab some pastries and enjoy them at one of the many cafes along the water, paired with some espresso.
Interested in seeing what Vis is like firsthand? Watch my YouTube video to see how we spent 1 week exploring the island. If you’re planning to visit more of Croatia, you can also check out my other Croatia post, How to Spend 48 Hours in Dubrovnik.
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